When people think of Georgian wine, their minds often drift eastward: to the sun-drenched vineyards of Kakheti, to the bold Saperavi and crisp Rkatsiteli that dominate export markets and wine lists. But in the far west, nestled in the green, humid valleys of Samegrelo, a quieter, more delicate story is unfolding.
At the heart of this story is Orkoli Winery, a small producer founded by friends Giorgi and Bagrat, whose mission goes beyond winemaking. They are reviving the soul of a region through its nearly forgotten grapes.
“We could have planted Saperavi and sold it quickly,” says Giorgi. “But that wasn’t our dream. We wanted to give voice to the grapes that almost disappeared. If we don’t bring them back, who will?”
Endangered Grapes with Deep Roots
Orkoli specializes in rare Western Georgian varietals such as Koloshi, Chekobali, and Ojaleshi — names that are unfamiliar even to many Georgians. These grapes, once widely cultivated in Samegrelo, suffered decades of neglect during the Soviet era, when centralized agriculture favored uniformity and volume over diversity and terroir.
“These grapes are more than plants,” explains Bagrat. “They are part of our cultural DNA. Each one carries stories, rituals, and flavors that belong to this land.”
The task has not been easy. Very few cuttings of some varietals remained. Giorgi and Bagrat had to search through abandoned vineyards, talk to elderly villagers, and work with agronomists to identify, preserve, and replant what little remained.
The Magic of Mukhuri
Orkoli’s vineyard lies in Mukhuri, a small village near the Egrisi mountains, where the subtropical climate, rich soils, and proximity to the Black Sea create a distinct microclimate. Grapes here ripen slowly, developing nuanced acidity and aromatic profiles unlike anything found in Eastern Georgia.
This terroir, combined with low-intervention techniques and the use of both qvevri and stainless steel fermentation, results in wines that are elegant, fresh, and unmistakably local.
Koloshi is delicate and floral; Chekobali offers bright acidity and wild berry notes; Ojaleshi, perhaps the most well-known of the three, gives structure and a touch of spice.
A Cultural and Ethical Mission
For Giorgi and Bagrat, the work is about more than wine. It’s about cultural preservation, sustainability, and reclaiming Samegrelo’s voice in Georgia’s ancient wine tradition.
“We don’t just want to make good wine,” says Giorgi. “We want to remind people that this region has something to say. That these grapes, once nearly lost, can inspire a new generation of growers and drinkers.”
In a world dominated by sameness, Orkoli’s dedication to difference is a quiet act of rebellion. And one sip of their wine is enough to understand why the West deserves to be heard again.
